Just before we left Noyers for Vézelay, Burgundy in France on Wednesday, we had beverages at La Porte Peinte.
One of the reasons this is so significant is because we had our first latte in Burgundy here.
We have it on good authority that the locals in regional France have a penchant for black coffee and have been known to dunk pastries in oversized mugs of it.
This explains the scarcity of lattes or alternatively, an espresso accompanied by a side of hot milk or topped with frothed cream when white coffee is requested.
It was a progressive coffee and cake 35 minutes later at Auxerre, Burgundy in France visiting Maison Eric Roy for some of their decadent gâteaux.
We walked around the cobblestoned peaks and troughs of Burgundy's fourth largest city and stayed the night.
On Thursday, we arrived at Vézelay and checked in to Les Glycines, a boutique hotel set in a 17th century building.
Both Vézelay and its 11th century Romanesque Basilica of St Magdalene which is around the corner from Les Glycines, are UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) World Heritage Sites.
We spent the afternoon meandering around the village and shops, working up an appetite for dinner.
Note, chandelier goals.
After wandering about Vézelay in the hope that we could walk into a restaurant that was not 'complet' or full, we came across L'eau à la Bouche in neighbouring village Saint-Père.
Having only recently opened, this ended up being one of our best dining experiences in Burgundy, between the good old fashioned hospitality and local produce.
Entrée was a generous charcuterie board of jambon or ham.
Main course was filet de truite de la ferme aquacole de Crisenon, mousseline de carottes au fenouil torréfié, copeaux de fenouil cru et sauce vierge or trout from the Crisenon artisanal fish farm, carrot and roasted fennel mousse and sauce vierge.
Additionally, carré d’agneau, pommes de terre Charlotte et brocoli or rack of lamb, Charlotte potatoes and broccoli.
We took a day trip on Friday to two châteaux in and around the village of Treigny, approximately an hour from Vézelay.
First was Château de Ratilly, built in medieval times.
Second was Château de Guédelon, currently under construction as part of an archaeology project aimed at recreating a 13th century castle within its context.
Dinner in Vézelay, this time with a reservation at Le Cheval Blanc known for its gourmet dishes made from regional and seasonal produce, was worth the wait.
Main courses were Noix de Saint-Jacques poêlées, risotto au parmesan à la crème de truffes or pan-fried scallops with parmesan risotto and truffle cream; and filet de boeuf Charolais, pommes grenailles et champignons à la lie de vin or Charolais steak, potatoes and mushroom sauce.
Desserts were croquignole aux framboises, crème vanillée et sorbet citron vert or raspberry tuile with vanilla cream and lime sorbet; and feuillantine au chocolat amer et coulis de citron vert or chocolate feuilletine and lime coulis.
On the way back to Les Glycines, this was the view of the basilica illuminated at night.
La Porte Peinte
3 Place de l'Hôtel de Ville
89310 Noyers
Burgundy
France
+33 6 38 89 15 23
laportepeinte.com
@laportepeinte
Maison Eric Roy
21 Place Charles Lepère
89000 Auxerre
Burgundy
France
+33 3 86 52 14 08
eric-roy.eu
@patisserieroy
Les Glycines
33 Rue Saint-Pierre
89450 Vézelay
Burgundy
France
+33 3 86 47 29 81
vezelay-glycines.com
L'eau à la Bouche
4 Rue du Pont
89450 Saint-Père
Burgundy
France
+33 9 87 14 42 84
leaualabouche.net
@leaualabouchestpere
Le Cheval Blanc
Place du Champ de Foire
89450 Vézelay
Burgundy
France
+33 3 86 33 22 12
lechevalblancvezelay.fr
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